Fashion Month Sustainability Review
The Bergstrand Team Looks at September’s Fashion Weeks Through a Sustainability Lens
Steps Forward, But Much More to Do (Especially For Big Brands)
From our review, it was apparent that many of the brands pioneering sustainability during Fashion Month aren’t the big names traditionally associated with the global runway.
According to Fashion Revolution’s recent ‘What Fuels Fashion’ report, the world’s biggest brands are not cutting fossil fuel emissions fast enough, underscoring a major challenge facing the industry. With this in mind, it’s disappointing that it is smaller, more vulnerable brands that are taking leadership, while many of the industry’s biggest names continue to prioritise consumption-driven trends over meaningful change. While there are exceptions–like Burberry, which is achieving carbon neutrality across global operations and aims to be climate positive by 2040–the industry’s largest players are lagging behind.
Despite this, Fashion Month 2024 has shown that sustainability can become an integral part of the industry’s evolution that fosters creativity channeled into a purpose greater than simply being new.
From innovative materials to circular fashion, here are the themes and brands we identified that are taking meaningful steps toward a more sustainable future.
Circular Fashion Takes the Spotlight
One of the most prominent trends across all fashion weeks was the push toward circular fashion—a model that prioritises extending the life of materials and reducing waste.
Christian Siriano made waves at New York Fashion Week by debuting garments crafted from Circ Lyocell, a fabric derived from recycled poly cotton waste.
In both New York and London, eBay's Endless Runway events highlighted pre-loved fashion, allowing shoppers to instantly purchase the second-hand looks seen on the runway. This embrace of second-hand fashion reflects the growing desire among consumers for unique, archive pieces rather than new, mass-produced items.
Marine Serre’s Paris show was a masterclass in upcycling. She transformed discarded textiles such as vintage tablecloths and deadstock fabrics into avant-garde high fashion, proving that waste can indeed become a luxury.
At Milan Fashion Week, the Sustainability Fashion Awards honoured brands like Diesel, which was recognized by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation for integrating circular business principles. Diesel's efforts to repurpose obsolete products and extend the life of their garments reflected the brand's commitment to circularity.
These efforts underline a growing movement toward rethinking waste and designing garments with a life beyond the runway.
Next-Generation Materials
Another exciting trend was the use of next-generation materials. Designers across fashion month embraced fabrics that are alternatives to synthetic fibres.
Ganni, in their Paris show, showcased an impressive array of seven innovative materials including Circulose, Cycora, and Cilium. Their commitment to reducing their carbon footprint by 50% by 2027 was evident in the materials they chose for their Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
Stella McCartney, a leader in sustainable luxury, continued her mission at Paris Fashion Week by utilising plant-based leather, regenerated cashmere, and recycled materials like polyester sourced from ocean plastics.
These innovations are helping to pave the way for a future where fashion’s environmental footprint is significantly reduced.
Ethical Production & Cultural Heritage
While sustainability often focuses on materials, ethical production practices and a commitment to cultural heritage are also central themes in the evolution of fashion.
House of Khaddar used the runway at New York Fashion Week to showcase materials like Khaddar denim and organic tomato leather, rooted in India’s hand-spun and hand-woven traditions. The collection emphasised how innovation can be beautifully intertwined with cultural preservation.
In London, independent designer Lucy Tammam took the opportunity to spotlight the work of Stop Ecocide International, an organisation pushing to criminalise environmental destruction. Her collection reminded us that fashion can be used as a platform for advocacy.
The message is clear: sustainability extends beyond the choice materials. It’s about respecting craftsmanship, workers, and the planet.
Social Media and the Underconsumption Movement
In the era of fast fashion, social media has often been accused of fuelling overconsumption. Yet, there’s been a shift—underconsumption is now a growing trend across platforms like TikTok and Instagram.
Creators are championing pre-loved fashion, celebrating their ability to put together outfits from vintage stores and second-hand platforms.
Collina Strada’s SS25 show in New York cleverly used its “Touch Grass” theme to highlight the importance of slowing down and reconnecting with the planet, all while delivering a highly viral and meme-worthy experience.
Social media has become a tool not only for showcasing the latest trends but also for promoting more mindful consumption patterns. Fashion creators are increasingly focusing on finding unique, long-lasting pieces that align with their values.
Challenges Designers Face in Sustainability
While many brands are making significant strides, it’s important to acknowledge the ongoing challenges of embracing sustainable practices in an industry driven by speed and consumer demand.
Vogue Business aptly pointed out that "sustainable fashion is getting harder, not easier, for designers." The cost of sourcing sustainable materials remains high, and many brands are struggling to balance more responsible production with profitability.
Earlier this year, Mara Hoffman put her sustainability-focused brand on pause and blamed the fashion industry’s disconnect from natural cycles and seasons contributing to burnout among designers. However, as part of New York’s Climate Week last week, she was seen partnering with Vestiaire Collective to sell more than 90 pieces from her brand’s archives.
The challenge for Fashion Week remains, as the demand for constant innovation often contradicts the slower, more mindful processes required for true sustainability.
Looking Ahead
Hopefully what our review has shown is that there are many ways brands can begin to act more sustainably, regardless of their scale.
If you’re looking to transition to more circular practices with a design for circular economy workshop, explore next-generation materials, or create a sustainability strategy for your brand, Bergstrand Consultancy can help.
Schedule a complimentary 45-minute consultation to discuss how we can help you achieve meaningful change sooner.
What We’re Reading This Month
The overlooked child labour problem in fashion’s supply chain (Vogue Business) — Fashion is grappling with a widespread child labour issue across major sourcing regions like India and China, with experts urging the industry to clean up its opaque supply chains and eliminate the problem, especially as forced labour regulations loom.
Researchers studying bottlenose dolphins found polyester and other plastics in every animal they tested (New York Times) — Scientists have found microplastics in dolphin breath for the first time, highlighting how plastic pollution is affecting marine mammals and the pervasive nature of plastic in our environment