A living wage, by definition, covers the real cost of a decent standard of living: food, housing, healthcare, transport, education, and a small margin for unexpected expenses.

A minimum wage, by contrast, is a legal threshold set by governments which can fall far below what workers actually need to live.

For millions of garment workers worldwide, the gap between a living wage and minimum wage is profound.

In key hubs like Cambodia, minimum wages cover just one-third of an estimated living wage.

This disparity has been documented for more than a decade, yet virtually no major fashion brand discloses how many of their workers actually earn a living wage.

The consequences are stark: workers face impossible choices between food, healthcare, housing, and education, while brands risk the kind of court interventions and public scandals now hitting Italian luxury labels over supply chain labour abuses.

Tools for Progress

The tools to calculate and deliver living wages already exist; the challenge for brands is choosing them, using them, and integrating them into sourcing decisions.

Asia Floor Wage

The Asia Floor Wage defines a living wage sufficient for a worker supporting themselves and two family members. The figure is expressed in purchasing-power-parity terms (PPP), which adjusts for local cost-of-living differences. For 2024, this benchmark equals the purchasing power of about €1,500 per month.

Brands can use this as a regional reference point when assessing wage gaps in Asian supply chains.

Anker Methodology

Anker Methodology is a rigorous, ILO-endorsed approach that calculates country- and city-specific living wages based on real cost-of-living data.

Brands can lean on Anker benchmarks to set fair pay targets, inform Codes of Conduct, and track year-on-year progress.

Multi-stakeholder initiatives (MSIs)

Programs like Action, Collaboration, Transformation (ACT), and Fair Wear Foundation bring brands, unions, and suppliers together to negotiate fair wages and improve purchasing practices.

In Cambodia, ACT supported the first brand-backed collective bargaining agreements, securing wage increases above the legal minimum.

For brands, MSIs offer shared responsibility, credibility, and collective leverage where individual action is not enough.

It’s Not Just a Global South Problem

There’s a persistent myth that wage exploitation happens only in Asia or other Global South countries. In reality, garment workers in Eastern Europe and other “nearshore” production countries (those close to Western European markets) often face similarly low pay.

In some cases, the gap between actual wages and a living wage is even larger than in major Asian hubs. Legal minimum wages in countries like Bulgaria, Romania, and Serbia frequently fall below the poverty line, yet “Made in Europe” labels continue to signal fairness and quality

The truth is that low wages are a global system problem, not a regional one. Brands’ relentless push for lower costs and faster turnarounds puts pressure on factories everywhere, creating a “race to the bottom” where workers’ pay is the first to suffer.

To counter this, initiatives like the Europe Floor Wage are working to establish cross-border living wage benchmarks across Central, Eastern, and Southeast Europe. Their goal: to ensure factories can’t simply relocate to chase lower wages, but instead commit to paying workers fairly wherever they operate.

Brand Commitments vs. Reality

Despite a decade of pledges, real-world progress remains slow.

Take H&M, which in 2013 pledged to secure living wages for 850,000 workers by 2018, a goal it later abandoned as the company shifted its focus to process-driven measures instead, such as improving wage-management systems in factories or implementing supervisory training. While these steps can help long-term, they do not guarantee workers receive higher pay.

Or look at India in 2025, when sudden U.S. tariffs left thousands of factory workers furloughed overnight. Migrant workers, who form the backbone of production, were left without pay or safety nets.

These examples highlight a persistent accountability gap. Outsourcing production allows brands to declare support for fair wages while avoiding the long-term investments needed to make real change. Without commitments to fair pricing, order stability, and local engagement, meaningful wage reform stalls.

Living Wages Enter the Regulatory Spotlight

The EU’s new sustainability reporting rules are putting living wages on the agenda. Under the CSRD and ESRS, some brands must now disclose how they ensure “adequate wages” across their operations and supply chains.

But the current draft of ESRS still applies different standards: within the EU, companies can be expected to align with living wage principles, while outside the EU, legal minimum wages can still count as “adequate.” Since only 29 of 178 countries set minimum wages above living wage levels, this risks creating a two-tier system that undermines credibility and fairness.

As consultations continue, stakeholders are calling for stronger, globally consistent benchmarks to ensure that “adequate” truly means a wage that workers can live on, wherever they are.

A Systemic Problem

Low wages are a consequence of a fashion system that is fundamentally flawed.

Consumers have been conditioned to expect ever-lower prices. Shareholders expect ever-higher returns. To make both possible, the pressure is pushed down the chain, and the people with the least power, garment workers, absorb the cost.

Paying a living wage means someone has to absorb the difference. Either prices rise, or brand margins fall. One risks losing customers; the other risks shareholder dissatisfaction. Neither path is easy, which is why the system continues to default to the status quo.

But brands do have agency. And as regulation tightens and expectations shift, there is a growing opportunity, and responsibility, to reshape how value is distributed.

Here are some of the practical steps brands can take to make living wages achievable in today’s fashion system:

Six Things Brands Can Do

1. Integrate Living Wages into Codes of Conduct: Include living wage requirements, map supplier pay levels, and set measurable improvement goals

2. Reform Purchasing Practices: Price garments fairly, commit to long-term supplier relationships, and avoid last-minute order changes that drive down wages

3. Support Freedom of Association: Empower workers to organise and bargain collectively

4. Join Collaborative Initiatives: Align with groups like ACT, Fair Wear Foundation, and the Ethical Trading Initiative to share learning and scale impact

5. Be Transparent: Publish wage strategy, progress, and methodologies, not just data, to build accountability and trust

6. Improve Wage Financing: Pilot living wage premiums or brand-funded wage funds that directly reach workers

How Bergstrand Can Help

Real progress begins when brands take accountability.

At Bergstrand, we support brands in mapping their supply chains, identifying wage gaps, and creating strategies for improvement.

From strengthening Codes of Conduct and benchmarking collaborative initiatives to reforming purchasing practices and building long-term sourcing roadmaps, we guide brands through the practical steps that make fair pay achievable.

A strong starting point for many brands is a Code of Conduct. Embedding clear living-wage expectations, along with guidance on implementation, monitoring, and supplier engagement, creates a strong foundation for change. If your brand needs support updating or developing its Code of Conduct, you can explore our service offering here:

Codes of Conduct with Bergstrand

We also support brands with sustainability reporting, helping ensure that living wage progress is credible, measurable, and aligned with emerging regulations.

If you found this newsletter valuable, please consider forwarding it to colleagues or contacts who may benefit.

General Enquiries: info (at) bergstrand.co

Learn more and apply here: https://www.bergstrand.co/workshops/circular-design-masterclass

What Circularity Means Now

The European Union has set an ambitious goal: to become a fully circular economy by 2050 as part of the Green Deal. For fashion, this means a fundamental transformation. By 2030, all textile products placed on the EU market should be long-lasting, repairable, and recyclable.

But the reality today looks very different. According to Textile Exchange’s 2025 Materials Market Report, emissions from textiles have risen by 20% in the past five years. Global fibre production hit a record 132 million tonnes in 2024, with polyester making up nearly 60% of that.

Meanwhile, the linear “take–make–waste” system is collapsing under its own weight: every second, a truckload of clothing is landfilled or burned, while less than 1% of used textiles are recycled into new garments. Left unchecked, fashion could consume more than a quarter of the global carbon budget for a 2°C pathway by 2050.

The conclusion is unavoidable: simply “extracting better” isn’t enough. To reach climate goals, fashion must shift to a circular model, designing products that remain in circulation for decades, not months.

The Hidden Power of Design Decisions

Circularity starts long before a garment reaches the shop floor. Some estimates suggest that as much as 80% of a product’s environmental impact is determined at the design stage. Every material choice, seam, and construction method influences how long a garment will last, and what can happen to it once it’s worn out.

Designing for longevity doesn’t only mean creating durable clothes; it means making garments that invite care, repair, and reuse. Swedish denim brand Nudie Jeans approaches design with this mindset, creating garments intended to be maintained, mended, and kept in use for as long as possible. In 2023, the brand also repaired more than 73,000 pairs of jeans through its global repair program.

What Circular Design Unlocks

For Brands

• New value streams: Programs like Patagonia’s Worn Wear and TOAST’s Renewed show how resale and repair can drive loyalty and capture revenue beyond the first sale

• Regulatory readiness: With EU Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes coming, brands that design with recyclability in mind will be better placed to comply

• Reputation & impact: Circular models can strengthen consumer trust while lowering a brand’s resource use and waste

For Designers

• Creative opportunity: Working with modularity, multi-functionality, and upcycled textiles unlocks new design languages

• Career advantage: Circular design is fast becoming a sought-after skillset, as fashion schools and companies alike embed circularity into their programs

For the Planet

• Less extraction: Using what we already have reduces demand for virgin fibres and synthetics

• Lower emissions: Studies have shown how circular economy strategies can cut global greenhouse gas emissions

• Less waste: Keeping garments in use means fewer landfills filled with textiles, and fewer toxic piles like those seen in Chile’s Atacama Desert or Ghana’s Accra

Circularity as a Mindset Shift

Circular fashion isn’t just about recycling. It’s about rethinking the entire model of fashion, from ownership to design.

It requires:

• Seeing clothing as long-term investments, not disposables

• Designing for multiple owners and uses over time

• Shifting from “selling more units” to “delivering more value per unit”

The Bergstrand Circular Design Framework

At Bergstrand, we’ve spent years working with design and product teams to embed circularity into their creative process. Our Circular Design Framework enables designers to:

• Apply circular design principles to real collections

• Identify where recyclability, repairability, and longevity can be strengthened

• Build a mindset where circularity fuels creativity, not restricts it

Join the Circular Design Masterclass

This November, we’re opening up our Circular Design Masterclass to individuals for the first time.

Masterclass dates:

• December 16, 2025 9:00 (deadline for signup December 7th)

Location: Stockholm Södermalm (SoFo)

Duration: Four hours

Language: English

If you’re a designer, product developer, fabric buyer or someone involved with clothing production, and looking to turn circularity into part of your toolkit, this is your chance.

Book your place here: https://www.bergstrand.co/workshops/circular-design-masterclass

It’s been a big summer and start of autumn for compliance in Europe. From the withdrawal of the EU Green Claims Directive to escalating fines for Shein, the regulatory landscape is shifting fast, and we’re here to help you stay ahead.

Here’s what you need to know:

News Updates

EU Green Claims Directive Withdrawn

Originally proposed to fight greenwashing by requiring brands to scientifically substantiate and third-party verify environmental claims, the Green Claims Directive was withdrawn in June 2025.

Why? The EU Parliament found it too complex and costly, especially for SMEs. But the withdrawal doesn’t mean brands can relax; claims still fall under the Unfair Commercial Practices Directive (UCPD) and the Empowering Consumers Directive (see below).

Shein’s Summer of Fines

Shein faced multiple sanctions this summer:

• France: €1.1M fine under AGEC law for omitting mandatory microplastic disclosure

• Italy: €1M fine for misleading environmental claims

• France (Competition & Anti-Fraud Office): €40M fine for deceptive price reductions

France’s Anti-Fast Fashion Bill

In June, the French Senate passed a bill targeting ultra-fast fashion, expected to be validated in the coming months. Key requirements for brands include:

• A definition of ultra-fast fashion and escalating penalties (up to 50% of product price by 2030)

• A ban on advertising ultra-fast fashion or a mandatory promotion of second-hand alternatives

• Disclose the environmental impact of products

• Disclose country of origin next to the price, in the same font size as the price – applies to all brands, not just ultra-fast fashion

EU Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) Restriction Expands

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has now completed its evaluation of scientific and technical comments (over 5,600 comments) from third parties during the consultations. As a result, the scope of the proposed PFAS restriction has been expanded to cover additional sectors, including technical textiles.

There is currently no confirmed compliance date, as the proposal is still under development - implementation could potentially be expected around 2028, though this remains uncertain.

Circular Economy Act in Motion

The EU Commission has launched its first public consultation for the Circular Economy Act. The goal is to accelerate the transition to a circular economy by creating a stronger single market for secondary raw materials, simplifying and harmonising Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes, and expanding EPR to new product groups, among other things.

The proposal is expected in Q4 2026, with adoption anticipated between 2027–2028.

EU Deforestation Regulation (EUDR) Delay

On 23 September 2025, Environment Commissioner Jessika Roswall signalled her intention in a letter to postpone the EUDR by one year. The reason given is technical issues with the TRACES IT platform used to manage compliance data, though political and trade pressures have also played a role.

For now, nothing has changed: the delay is only a letter, not an official EU proposal. A delay would only take effect if the Commission puts forward a formal proposal and it is approved by both the European Parliament and Council.

Waste Framework Directive (WFD) Revision and Textile Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR)

On 9 September 2025, the European Parliament approved the revised Waste Framework Directive, now published in the Official Journal of the EU.

• Entry into force: mid-October 2025

• Member States have 20 months to include provisions into their own national law, including rules for Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for textiles, ensuring businesses fund and manage end-of-life garment collection and treatment

A key element of the revision is the introduction of mandatory Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for textiles, requiring producers to finance and manage the collection, sorting, reuse, and recycling of discarded garments and footwear. What this means for brands:

• EPR will apply to apparel, home textiles, and footwear (but not bags or leather)

• Producers must register in every market they sell to

• Reporting requirements still to be defined (not harmonised EU-wide)

• Implementation of textile EPR schemes is expected by Q1 2028

Denmark Takes Over EU Presidency

Denmark now holds the rotating presidency of the Council of the EU, signalling a more ambitious environmental agenda in upcoming negotiations.

Key Laws to Have on Your Radar

Unfair Commercial Practices Directive (UCPD)

Already in force - the goal of this law is to protect consumers. It applies to all B2C commercial practices (before, during, and after purchase), and brands must ensure:

• All claims are clear, specific, and truthful

• Evidence is ready to substantiate claims

• No vague terms like “eco,” “green,” “sustainable” without proof

• No fake or weak labels

Empowering Consumers Directive

This is essentially an update to the UCPD, coming into force September 27, 2026. It adds:

• More prohibitions, including misleading sustainability claims

• Obligations to inform consumers on product repairability and durability

• Each member state will set penalties and define what counts as sufficient evidence

Other Notables:

• Footwear Labelling Directive: specifies what info must be included on labels for footwear components

• French Eco-Score: From 1 October 2026, anyone can calculate any brand’s eco-score using publicly available methods. While France cannot make the system mandatory under EU law, brands may choose to calculate their own score, which is the only way to challenge scores calculated by others

Takeaway

The compliance landscape for fashion and textiles is becoming more fragmented and more demanding, particularly in France and at the EU level. The focus is clear: transparency, traceability, and truthful communication.

If there was anything in this briefing you didn’t fully understand, or if you’d like support navigating these changes, interpreting the laws for your market, or reviewing your product claims, our team can help.

Contact our Compliance Expert Emma: emma (at) bergstrand.co
General Enquiries: info (at) bergstrand.co

It’s in Tier 4 fields where fibres are grown, Tier 2 dye houses and mills where fabrics are finished, the ships and planes that move garments, and even in customers’ laundry rooms.

This newsletter shines a light on those hiding places, from raw materials to end-of-life, and why ignoring them is no longer an option.

The First Hiding Place is Raw Materials

The story begins long before a garment reaches a factory. Raw material production, from cotton fields to wool farms to polyester production facilities, is where emissions are often “baked in.”

For natural fibres, agricultural emissions come from synthetic fertiliser use, irrigation, diesel-powered machinery, and, in the case of animal fibres, enteric methane from livestock. For synthetics, the picture is even more stark: polyester is essentially oil in another form, and its production draws heavily on fossil feedstocks, petrochemical processing, and grid electricity in coal-reliant regions.

This means that no matter how “green” a brand’s store or sewing factories (Tier 1) are, a big portion of emissions is already locked in at the fibre stage, often before you’ve placed your first purchase order.

Procurement strategies should prioritise fibres with lower cradle-to-gate footprints (e.g. recycled, regenerative, closed-loop), but should also consider region-specific impacts and supplier energy sources. The choice of farm or producer can be as significant as the choice of fibre.

The Carbon Giant in the Middle: Fabric Processing and Dyeing

If raw materials are the first footprint, fabric processing is the carbon giant lurking in the middle.

Spinning fibres, weaving or knitting, dyeing, and finishing are energy- and chemical-intensive processes. In Asia, where much of the world’s textiles are made, mills often rely on coal-fired boilers to produce the heat and steam needed for dyeing.

This is also where visibility typically breaks down. Many brands know their Tier 1 suppliers (sewing factories), but they are still far away from the fabric mills that supply those factories. Without traceability and data-sharing, emissions at this stage remain invisible.

But ignoring these stages is a mistake. Switching to low-impact processing technologies like waterless dyeing or laser finishing can cut emissions significantly. While some changes, like moving boilers off coal, are often outside suppliers’ control in countries such as China, where the government decides the energy mix, brands can still support progress.

Many currently buy green certificates to offset this, but these don’t drive the real change needed. As advocacy groups have pointed out to brands like Lululemon, if Asian suppliers don’t move off coal by 2030, climate targets won’t hold. The question remains: who will finance this transition, suppliers already operating on thin margins, or the brands that rely on them?

Tier 1 is the Visible but Smaller Slice

Cut-and-sew factories are where most brands have direct relationships, and where many sustainability strategies have traditionally focused. Yet, compared to Tiers 2, 3 or 4, their direct emissions are modest. Sewing machines and irons are electricity-driven and labour-intensive rather than energy-hungry.

That doesn’t mean this stage should be ignored. Fast fashion’s fragmented, short-term sourcing models discourage factories from investing in efficiency upgrades. Longer-term partnerships, co-financed energy improvements, or even solar panels on factory roofs can reduce emissions while strengthening supplier relations. For brands with higher-end or regionalised production, cleaner grids in places like Portugal or Türkiye can be an advantage. Outside Europe, countries like India, Vietnam, and Sri Lanka are also scaling up renewables.

The Hidden Bomb of Air Freight

Fashion is global: fabrics are often produced or sourced in countries like China, garments are manufactured in hubs such as Bangladesh, and finished products are shipped to regions like Europe for distribution worldwide.

Emissions from transport and logistics depend not only on distance, but mode.

Sea freight is efficient. Air freight is not. Yet many brands still fly in goods to meet drop dates or replenish bestsellers. Moving one ton of goods by air can emit 50–60 times more CO₂ per kilometre than by sea.

The surge of e-commerce adds another layer: returns. In Europe, around 20% of online clothing purchases are sent back. In the fast fashion and low-cost segment, many of these returns are destroyed rather than resold, which doubles the footprint of logistics and creates avoidable waste.

Better options exist: such as shifting to rail freight as a middle ground, designing supply chains to avoid back-and-forth zigzags, and discouraging over-reliance on air freight through smarter inventory planning. But these are not quick fixes: tight lead times, delays, and cost pressures make them hard to put into practice.

Tackling logistics emissions often means rethinking planning cycles and accepting longer lead times, a challenge for many brands.

Consumer Use and End-of-Life

Post-sale, emissions don’t stop. In fact, the use phase, especially laundering and drying, can represent a significant share of lifetime impact for basics and sportswear.

Brands can help by promoting cold-water washing, line drying, and extending garment lifespans through repair services and higher-quality design. Longer life means lower emissions per wear.

End-of-life is another overlooked stage. Today, most clothing ends up in landfills or incineration, releasing carbon all over again. Worse, 4–9% of textiles in Europe are destroyed before they're even worn. Designing for recyclability, supporting take-back schemes, and partnering with fibre-to-fibre recyclers can keep clothes in circulation.

How to Find and Tackle Hidden Emissions

Tools exist to find and measure these hidden hotspots:

• GHG Protocol provides a standardised framework for tracking Scope 1, 2, and 3 emissions (covering direct operations, purchased energy, and value chain impacts)

• Life Cycle Assessments show stage-by-stage footprints

• Science-Based Targets align reduction goals with climate science

• Traceability platforms and carbon management software are helping brands map beyond Tier 1

• Industry collaborations like the Apparel Impact Institute and STICA are pooling resources for decarbonisation

Regulation is coming too. In the EU, the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive and Product Environmental Footprint (PEF)-based labelling are making robust emissions data a legal requirement.

Real-World Momentum Worth Watching

1. Manufacturers showing the way: In Pakistan, Sapphire Finishing Mills has nearly eliminated coal-powered dyeing using biomass boiler technology. In India’s Odisha mega‑park, Epic Group is building near‑net zero factories powered by rooftop/off‑site solar and biomass boilers

2. Circular polyester and cotton is scaling: U.S.-based recycler Circ is setting up the first large-scale facility for polycotton recycling in Saint-Avold, France. The project is supported by investors, including Inditex, Patagonia’s backers, and Breakthrough Energy Ventures

3. Emissions are unfortunately rising: 2024 was the warmest year on record, and in 2023, the fashion and textile sector emissions increased 7.5 per cent from the previous year. The Apparel Impact Institute attributes this to the growth in garment production and polyester fibre usage

Final Thoughts

From cotton fields to customer wardrobes, emissions hide across fashion’s value chain. For a long time, brands have focused on the parts they can see, stores, warehouses, and Tier 1 factories, while the real footprint lies elsewhere.

The key question isn’t whether your brand has hidden emissions. It’s: Do you know where they are, and what you’re going to do about them?

Bergstrand helps brands uncover their hidden footprint and create a roadmap to reduction.

➾ Discover how we can audit and recommendation CO₂-emission calculation platforms for your brand.

Or if you’re ready to uncover your brand’s emissions, get in touch: info(at)bergstrand.co

Photo credits: Meddy Huduti, Bergstrand, Vasyl S.

Child labour in cotton supply chains is not just a risk– it’s a near certainty in many regions. While some brands genuinely lack visibility, others hesitate to look too closely. Fear of reputational damage, supply chain disruptions, or legal consequences can make ignorance seem like the safer option. Instead, investigative organisations like Transparentum have to fill the gaps, uncovering the uncomfortable truths that brands are not addressing themselves.

In January 2025, Transparentum released a report uncovering child labour in ‘ethical’ cotton production in India. This finding reinforces a hard truth: labels and certifications do not eliminate risk. In low-mechanisation regions, even certified cotton can have hidden labour issues. The only way to know is to keep asking questions, keep tracing supply chains, and stay engaged. The narrative needs to change. A brand shouldn’t be condemned for finding child labour–it should be judged on how it responds.

The Hidden Layers of Child Labour in Agriculture

Unlike factory-based work, child labour in farming is often embedded within family structures, economic necessity, and rural traditions. The risk varies by region:

• Low-risk: In mechanised systems like the U.S. and Australia, machines dominate the process, limiting the need for manual labour.

• High-risk: In India, China, and other smallholder cotton farming regions, high costs and limited access to machinery make manual labour essential.

In India, where nearly all cotton farms are under two hectares, families often rely on their children to help manage debt and ensure economic survival.

The Overlooked Stage: Cotton Seed Production

When we speak to brands about their ideal cotton supply chain, the ambition is usually the same: traceability down to the farm level. However, one of the least scrutinised areas of cotton production is seed cultivation. Producing hybrid cotton seeds requires delicate hand-pollination of flowers, a task where small, nimble fingers are preferred for precision. This makes child labour particularly prevalent in this stage. Investigations have found children as young as six working on hybrid cotton seed farms, performing repetitive and meticulous tasks that escape oversight. Audits and certifications often focus on later stages of production, leaving these early processes unexamined.

Brands may have little direct control over this stage, but ignoring it only deepens the problem. A first step would be to acknowledge it exists and explore ways to support interventions like the MV Foundation.

Avoidance vs. Impact: How Brands Can Respond

Faced with these high child labour risks in cotton, brands wanting to mitigate them tend to take one of two approaches:

• Avoidance: Sourcing from countries with lower child labour risks and higher mechanisation, such as the US and Australia.

• Impact: Acknowledging the risk but working directly with smallholder farmers to improve livelihoods and reduce vulnerabilities.

There’s no single ‘right’ approach, but brands that actively engage with high-risk areas have an opportunity to support initiatives that are driving change, or perhaps even be that initiative driving the change. Take ARMEDANGELS for example, they set up their own Organic Farmers Association to support small-scale farmers in India to convert from conventional to organic cotton farming.

Supporting Systemic Change: Child Labour Free Zones & Participatory Guarantee Systems

Beyond individual brand efforts, systemic solutions are needed to break the cycle of child labour:

• Child Labour Free Zones: These initiatives support education and economic opportunities to prevent child labour at the root. Brands can partner with organisations creating these zones, providing a middle ground between the avoidance and impact approaches.

• Participatory Guarantee Systems (PGS): A community-driven verification system where farmers collectively uphold labour and environmental standards. For instance, a farmer will check that their neighbour farmer is sending their children to school. While this may seem unconventional, there are cases where it is effective.

One example of this PGS system in practice is Farfarm, a consultancy working in Brazil to develop regenerative supply chains using PGS principles. Founded by Beto Bina in 2018, Farfarm collaborates with local families to increase income security while ensuring children’s education. In partnership with the sneaker brand VEJA, they’ve built an organic cotton supply chain in the Amazon under agroforestry principles–supporting over 100 farming families and the forest at the same time.

Watch Farfarm’s short film, “Seeding Songs”, a three-minute glimpse into how community-driven solutions are reshaping agricultural supply chains.

Final Thoughts: A Call to Action

In a fibre supply chain as vast and complex as cotton, the narrative needs to change. Brands shouldn’t be condemned for uncovering child labour–because if they are, many will simply choose not to look. Instead, they should be judged on how they respond.

That said, not all brands engaging with this issue are doing so in good faith. Fast fashion giants like Shein should not be rewarded for uncovering child labour in their supply chains, especially when their business model fuels the very conditions that enable it. There is a critical difference between brands that use natural fibres and genuinely seek to engage in solutions versus those that commodify ‘sustainability’ for damage control.

Not all initiatives are equally effective either. Some programs are well-intentioned but fail to address the root causes, while others drive real, systemic impact. Bergstrand Consultancy helps brands navigate this landscape—identifying the most credible initiatives, ensuring due diligence is in place, and developing sourcing strategies that balance risk mitigation with meaningful engagement.

If your brand is ready to take a proactive approach, we can help. From assessing certification schemes to building direct partnerships with on-the-ground initiatives, we guide brands toward solutions that move beyond compliance and create real change. Get in touch with us at info(at)bergstrand.co

This regulation is designed to address the challenges of today’s dynamic markets, strengthening consumer safety, creating a level playing field for businesses, and enhancing enforcement measures.

What does the GPSR mean for textile and apparel brands?

It’s evident that compliance with the GPSR is crucial for maintaining access to the EU market. Covering a wide range of non-food consumer products–including textiles, clothing, footwear, and accessories–this newsletter unpacks the GPSR, explains how it differs from the previous directive, and outlines the key steps brands must take to comply.

What is the GPSR?

The General Product Safety Regulation (GPSR) is the new legal framework addressing gaps in the regulation of non-food consumer product safety across the EU. It aligns with the realities of today’s digital marketplace.

Emerging from the European Commission’s 2020 review of the General Product Safety Directive, the GRSR tackles issues such as:

• Challenges arising from digitalisation, e-commerce, and new technologies

• Inconsistent enforcement of rules

• Safety concerns over non-EU profit imports

Acting as a safety net, the GPSR covers all non-food consumer products not governed by other specific EU legislation, including new product categories that may emerge in the future. It applies to all companies placing products on the EU market, regardless of where the products are manufactured or sold–be it online or offline.

The only exemptions are limited to categories such as food, pharmaceuticals, medical products, living plants and animals, and antiques.

Crucially, as a regulation rather than a directive, the GPSR provides uniform rules across all EU member states, streamlining compliance for businesses operating in multiple countries.

Key Differences from the Previous Directive

While both the GPSR and its predecessor share the common goal of ensuring consumer safety, the GPSR modernises the framework with significant enhancements:

• Focus on E-Commerce and Online Marketplaces

The GPSR places new obligations on online marketplace providers to monitor and remove unsafe products, facilitate communication with consumers, and provide better access to safety information.

• Enhanced Traceability

The regulation mandates detailed traceability obligations for manufacturers, importers, and distributors. This is particularly important for fashion brands navigating complex supply chains.

• Improved Safety Risk Assessments

The GPSR broadens the scope of risk assessments, factoring in emerging technologies and the vulnerabilities of specific consumer groups, such as children. For textile and apparel brands, this might involve testing for choking hazards, chemical content, or drawstring safety in children’s apparel.

• Improving Product Recall Processes

The regulation updates the Safety Gate Rapid Alert System (formerly RAPEX), modernising product recalls and introducing stricter notification requirements for consumers and authorities.

What Do Textile and Apparel Brands Need to Prioritise?

The GPSR introduces changes that require immediate attention. Here’s what textile and apparel brands need to prioritise:

1. Complying with Online Marketplace Regulations

Brands selling through online platforms must ensure that all required traceability and safety information is clearly displayed, including warnings such as flammability risks.

2. Maintaining Detailed Product Documentation

Manufacturers must retain comprehensive safety technical documentation for at least 10 years and cooperate with market surveillance authorities. For textile and apparel brands, this includes detailed records of product origin and material composition.

3. Updating Product Labelling

Labelling now requires the inclusion of:

• Manufacturer’s contact details

• Product origin

• Identification through serial numbers, batch codes, or equivalent systems

• Safety instructions and warnings, such as flammability risks for textiles or usage guidelines for accessories

4. Adopting a Proactive Risk Management Approach

Brands should regularly update their safety assessments to account for emerging technologies and the needs of vulnerable consumers. For textile and apparel products, this could include testing for chemical safety, flammability, or potential hazards in children’s clothing.

Summary

The GPSR makes a significant evolution in the EU’s approach to product safety, addressing the complexities of modern markets and economies. To stay ahead, brands should enhance product traceability, update their risk management practices, and focus on guaranteeing effective consumer communication.

If your company needs assistance in ensuring compliance with current and upcoming regulations, please reach out to us at info@bergstrand.co

The State of Fashion 2025 report, jointly published by McKinsey & Company and The Business of Fashion, paints a stark picture of a fashion industry grappling with economic uncertainty, shifting consumer behaviours, and regional market transformations. But amid these shifts, the report reveals a troubling trend: sustainability is slipping down the industry’s list of priorities, seen as less urgent in the face of short-term challenges.

For sustainability advocates, this poses a critical question: How do we ensure the long-term health of the planet remains central when the industry’s focus appears increasingly short-sighted?

The Findings: Navigating an Uncertain Future

The report highlights several key themes shaping the industry in 2025:

• Economic Reshuffling: For the first time in over a decade, non-luxury fashion is predicted to drive profit growth, overtaking luxury. Inflation-weary consumers are seeking value, turning to outlets and affordable “dupes”

• Regional Power Shifts: With China facing challenges, brands are diversifying into other Asian markets like India, Japan, and Korea

• Consumer Trends: AI-powered curation is redefining online shopping, but consumers remain hesitant to pay extra for sustainability

• Climate and Cost Conflicts: Fashion leaders cite economic volatility and consumer spending habits as the biggest risks, yet the growing costs of inaction on climate change remain undeniable

Sustainability’s Decline on the Agenda

Only 18% of executives consider sustainability a top-three priority for growth in 2025, down from 29% in 2024. This shift is a red flag. With consumer demand for sustainable products plateauing and economic pressures rising, companies are deprioritising green initiatives—despite mounting climate risks.

However, the report makes it clear: ignoring sustainability is not an option. The climate crisis continues to accelerate, and collective action is critical to meet decarbonisation targets. Efforts like Bangladesh’s push for 40% renewable energy by 2041 demonstrate what’s possible when the industry unites behind a shared goal.

The Irony of McKinsey’s Role

The involvement of McKinsey—a consultancy criticised for aiding high-emission industries—raises an ethical dilemma. While the report champions sustainability as vital for long-term success, McKinsey itself has come under fire for profiting from clients driving the climate crisis.

This duality is reflected in McKinsey’s own rhetoric. As managing partner Bob Sternfels once stated, “Companies can’t go from brown to green without getting a little dirty.” Critics argue that this pragmatism enables continued environmental harm, even as McKinsey positions itself as a leader in sustainable transitions.

For the fashion industry, McKinsey’s dual role underscores the complexities of meaningful change. Can an industry heavily reliant on consulting firms with conflicting interests truly achieve transformation? Addressing these tensions may require a fundamental reassessment of whom the industry partners with–and whether those partnerships align with the vision of a sustainability industry.

Regional Spotlight: India’s Rise and Shein’s Pivot

India’s booming economy and rapidly expanding middle class make it one of the fastest growing fashion markets, projected to grow 7% annually in 2025. With 430 million middle-class consumers—more than the combined populations of the US and Western Europe—India’s market offers immense opportunity for both mid-market and luxury brands. However, its diversity demands careful adaptation to local tastes, preferences, and spending habits, especially in tier-two and tier-three cities poised for growth.

Similarly, the global shift toward nearshoring is reshaping supply chains, with regions like Turkey emerging as key hubs for European fashion brands. However, controversial fast-fashion players like Shein highlight the pitfalls of prioritising cost and speed over environmental responsibility. Shein’s rapid scaling through partnerships with Turkish manufacturers raises serious concerns about worker welfare and the environmental impact of mass production, serving as a cautionary example for the industry.

The Way Forward: Long-Term Thinking Amid Short-Term Pressures

The report’s overarching message is clear: while short-term economic challenges dominate executives’ concerns, those who invest in sustainability will gain a competitive edge. From adopting renewable energy to reducing excess stock (estimated at 2.5–5 billion items in 2023), every step counts.

For Bergstrand Consultancy and our clients, the imperative is to lead by example. Despite economic headwinds, the transition to sustainable practices must remain a priority. If not now, when? If your brand is looking for guidance in navigating these challenges or advancing sustainability in your operations, we are here to help. Reach out to info (at) bergstrand.co to explore how we can support you.

Closing Thoughts

As the fashion industry enters another tumultuous year, the tension between profit and planet will only grow. The State of Fashion 2025 report offers valuable insights—but also serves as a reminder of the work still to be done. At Bergstrand, we believe that by challenging these long-established practices and prioritising sustainability, we can help shape a fashion future that favours both people and the planet.

Regenerative agriculture has become a focal point in the fashion and textile industry, heralded as a solution to some of the sector's most pressing environmental challenges. But what does it truly entail? Despite its rising prominence, there’s no single agreed-upon definition, fuelling both excitement and scepticism among brands, consumers, and producers.

During our recent Good Wool Collective session, Regenerative Agriculture in Action, we brought together brands and farmers to uncover what genuine regenerative practices look like in action. Our speakers—Philippe Birker, co-founder of Climate Farmers, and Dr. Charles Massy, regenerative farmer, scientist, and author—shared their personal journeys, invaluable insights, and aspirations for building a more harmonious relationship with the land.

The Hidden Costs of Industrial Farming

Philippe Birker began with a stark reality check: industrial farming systems aren’t just failing farmers—they’re failing us all. Exceeding planetary boundaries, contributing to biodiversity loss, and costing an estimated $15 trillion annually in hidden health and environmental damages, the current system is unsustainable.

But there’s hope. Philippe emphasised the wisdom of indigenous farming practices and the potential of regenerative agriculture to sequester carbon, restore ecosystems, and rebuild resilience in farming communities. Through his work with Climate Farmers, he’s seen firsthand how practices like integrating diverse animal species, agroforestry, and holistic grazing plans can breathe new life into the land. For instance, a Southern Portuguese farmer working with Climate Farmers now boasts green grass in June—unheard of for his region—thanks to strategic rotational grazing.

From Degradation to Restoration

Dr. Charles Massy took us to his farm, Severn Park, in Southwest Australia. For decades, he farmed conventionally, following advice that led to overgrazing, soil degradation, and biodiversity loss. Charles began farming regeneratively in the 1990s after witnessing the desertification and dehydration of his land firsthand. These experiences drove him to question conventional methods and adopt practices focused on restoring the land.

Charles’ journey is a testament to the resilience of nature. As one soil hydrologist working with his farm said, “If you just take your foot off the throat of Mother Nature, she is so resilient and beauty just comes out beneath your boots.”

Regeneration Meets Innovation

Regenerative farming isn’t just about healing the land; it’s also about creating exceptional products. Charles shared how his work with scientists to develop superior Merino sheep has led to wool with unmatched softness and strength. These elite fibres, combined with regenerative grazing practices, offer a unique opportunity for the textile industry: premium wool that supports animal welfare and restores ecosystems.

How Can Brands Support Regenerative Agriculture?

In the Good Wool Collective, we’re actively working to make regenerative agriculture more accessible and meaningful for brands. Our initiatives include:

• Encouraging collaborative purchasing to share costs and resources across brands.

• Conducting research into innovations like carbon-neutral wool and the latest certifications, helping brands make informed decisions.

• Offering guidance on working directly with farmers to build trust and transparency in the supply chain.

• Educating brands on how to embrace regenerative practices without falling into greenwashing traps.

Lisa Bergstrand, founder of the Good Wool Collective, concluded the session by saying: “This is a great opportunity to make a difference. You can choose where you buy your fibres from.”

Our Good Wool Collective sessions are exclusive to members, but we’re thrilled to share these insights with our wider community in this newsletter.

Best regards,
The Good Wool Collective Team

“Every element of what we wear comes from nature.” — Professor Dilys Williams

As leaders, scientists, and industry stakeholders gathered over two weeks in Cali, Colombia, for the 16th UN Conference of the Parties on Biodiversity (COP16), the fashion industry was confronted with an urgent call to address biodiversity loss with the same intensity as climate action. Unlike the upcoming COP29 on climate change, COP16 exclusively addresses the biodiversity crisis, calling for industries, including fashion, to align with goals for habitat protection and ecosystem restoration.

This year’s COP16 took place amid alarming events across the globe: devastating floods in Spain, severe fires in the Amazon, and shrinking carbon sinks across northern forests. Together, these crises highlight a key outcome from COP16: climate and biodiversity are interconnected challenges that must be addressed in unison to prevent further ecological collapse.

Understanding Biodiversity in Fashion

Biodiversity refers to the rich variety of living nature–from plants and animals to entire ecosystems, which form the essential framework that enables all production, including fashion. Fashion draws directly from nature, sourcing raw materials like cotton, linen, silk, leather, and wool, while oil-based synthetics indirectly impact biodiversity through extraction and pollution. Every fibre, dye, and material originates from or affects biodiversity in some way. And while fashion benefits from nature’s resources, its rapid extraction processes disrupt ecosystems, degrade land, pollute waterways, and contribute to species declines.

The relationship between fashion and nature has created a complex ‘debt’ where biodiversity is taken from faster than it’s replenished. Today, biodiversity is declining at rates estimated to be a thousand times the natural background rate, destabilising ecosystems that sustain life, economies, and industries globally. 

Nature and Climate: Two Sides of the Same Coin

Climate action and biodiversity conservation have been seen as separate issues. COP16 challenged this division, with ministers from around the world emphasising the need for a unified approach to these twin crises. As COP16 president Susana Muhamad has repeatedly stated, nature and climate are “two sides of the same coin.” Without tackling biodiversity loss, climate resilience cannot be achieved.

To reinforce this shift, the 2023 Kunming-Montreal Global Biodiversity Framework—often compared to the Paris Agreement for nature—outlines a target to protect and restore 30% of the world’s land and oceans by 2030. For fashion, this means engaging in biodiversity goals with the same rigour applied to carbon targets. After all, protecting biodiversity-rich resources is in the fashion industry’s keen interest because of its high dependency upon these materials. Despite this dependency, industry attendance at COP biodiversity summits is still less pronounced than at climate COPs. A change here could bring substantial, long-term benefits to the fashion industry by fostering a stable and regenerative resource base.

A Growing Sense of Accountability in Fashion 

Encouragingly, some brands are taking strides to support biodiversity, though these steps are still dwarfed by the industry’s overall scale. Companies such as Kering, LVMH, and Inditex are now making significant financial commitments to restore ecosystems affected by their supply chains. Gucci-owner Kering has set science-based biodiversity targets focused on reducing water use and land impact, while brands like VF Corp (The North Face), Allbirds, and Citizens of Humanity are supporting regenerative farming programs which hope to reduce carbon footprints and enhance biodiversity.

Meanwhile, new frameworks are emerging to guide brands’ efforts in biodiversity conservation:

• Textile Exchange has updated its standards to ensure low-impact materials are produced in environmentally sound ways.

• The Science-Based Targets for Nature (SBTN) recently launched guidelines to set actionable targets around water and land impacts in supply chains. Kering, H&M, and LVMH are among 17 companies piloting this initiative, which includes plans to prevent habitat conversion and restore degraded ecosystems.

• Finance for Biodiversity Foundation’s new initiative, FABRIC (Fostering Action for Biodiversity through Responsible Investment in Clothing), encourages transparency, regular monitoring, and accountability in biodiversity actions, aligning the industry with global conservation goals.

Additionally, the upcoming Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) in the EU will soon require brands to report on their biodiversity impacts, driving greater transparency and accountability across the industry.

Such moves show that industry leaders are increasingly aware of the responsibility—and the challenge—of integrating biodiversity into sustainable practices. However, the road ahead requires a much broader commitment.

Pathways to Biodiversity Protection in Fashion

For brands seeking to improve their biodiversity impact, several actions can help integrate conservation into their operations:

• Impact assessments and strategies: Regular assessments help brands pinpoint and mitigate biodiversity risks.

• Supporting regenerative agriculture: Partnering with farmers who use soil-replenishing techniques can stabilise raw material sources, ensuring a brand’s supply continuity and quality.

• Clean production practices: Reducing pollutants and water usage lowers environmental costs and promotes brand credibility.

• Circularity in design: Incorporating recyclable or biodegradable materials reduces a brand’s waste and can draw in new customers.

• Consumer education: Raising awareness about fashion’s biodiversity impact strengthens brand transparency, building trust and loyalty with consumers.

Ready to take meaningful action? Bergstrand Consultancy can support your journey with a comprehensive biodiversity impact audit, tailored strategies, ongoing guidance to help your brand drive its biodiversity efforts. Schedule a complimentary 45-minute consultation to discuss how we can help you achieve meaningful change sooner.

Schedule a Consultation Here

A Critical Perspective on Progress 

While these actions are promising, COP16 also highlighted gaps in the industry’s biodiversity efforts. Just 40% of members in the Fashion Pact—a global coalition of brands committed to climate, biodiversity, and ocean protection—have set biodiversity targets, and only 21% have implemented specific biodiversity strategies. While global biodiversity data disclosure has increased, fewer than 10% of reporting companies fully assess their dependence on biodiversity.

Fashion’s supply chain complexity often obscures its impact on biodiversity. A deeper shift will require brands to connect more directly with their supply sources, learning from and supporting local farming and production communities. Transparent audits, partnerships with regenerative farmers, and an integrated approach to conservation are crucial steps toward understanding and reducing the industry’s footprint. By reconnecting with the origins of their materials, fashion brands can redefine their relationship with nature, not merely as a resource to be used but as an entity to respect and protect.

Conclusion: Fashion’s Call to Action on Biodiversity

The message from COP16 is clear: the fashion industry has a critical role to play in biodiversity conservation. Protecting and restoring ecosystems is no longer just a ‘nice-to-have’ for companies but an essential part of building a sustainable future. For too long, fashion has treated nature as a bank of resources. It is now time to repay the debt by supporting the ecosystems that sustain us.

What We’re Reading This Month

In a world run by women, maybe there is no polyester… by Lucianne Tonti — Lucianne reflects on the Textile Exchange conference, where sustainability experts discussed reducing fashion’s environmental impact but largely ignored polyester’s severe ecological and health harms. She argues that polyester fuels fast fashion’s overproduction crisis, underscoring the need for systemic change in the industry.

Regulations are weighing down Made in Italy (Vogue Business) — Italy’s luxury suppliers warn that new EU regulations, aimed at boosting transparency, are imposing costly burdens on them without brand support. The famed “Made in Italy” label now faces existential challenges as suppliers struggle with rising costs and trust issues. Experts say that without stronger partnerships, Italian craftsmanship could be at risk.

Does Oeko-Tex Certification Mean a Product Is Safe? (Ecocult) — Oeko-Tex certification aims to ensure safer textiles, but it has gaps. Factories test annually for harmful substances, yet suppliers may cut corners with cheaper chemicals between tests. This inconsistency raises questions about reliability. 

UN names 2026 as the International Year of Rangelands and Pastoralists (Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United Nations) — This declaration reflects the important role healthy rangelands play in creating a sustainable environment, economic growth and resilient livelihoods for communities across the world.

Esquel Group restricted from exporting to US (EcoTextile News) — The Hong Kong-based Esquel Group, one of the world's biggest textile and apparel manufacturers, has been restricted from exporting to the US under the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA).

From our review, it was apparent that many of the brands pioneering sustainability during Fashion Month aren’t the big names traditionally associated with the global runway.

According to Fashion Revolution’s recent ‘What Fuels Fashion’ report, the world’s biggest brands are not cutting fossil fuel emissions fast enough, underscoring a major challenge facing the industry. With this in mind, it’s disappointing that it is smaller, more vulnerable brands that are taking leadership, while many of the industry’s biggest names continue to prioritise consumption-driven trends over meaningful change. While there are exceptions–like Burberry, which is achieving carbon neutrality across global operations and aims to be climate positive by 2040–the industry’s largest players are lagging behind.

Despite this, Fashion Month 2024 has shown that sustainability can become an integral part of the industry’s evolution that fosters creativity channeled into a purpose greater than simply being new.

From innovative materials to circular fashion, here are the themes and brands we identified that are taking meaningful steps toward a more sustainable future.

Circular Fashion Takes the Spotlight

One of the most prominent trends across all fashion weeks was the push toward circular fashion—a model that prioritises extending the life of materials and reducing waste.

• Christian Siriano made waves at New York Fashion Week by debuting garments crafted from Circ Lyocell, a fabric derived from recycled poly cotton waste. 

• In both New York and London, eBay's Endless Runway events highlighted pre-loved fashion, allowing shoppers to instantly purchase the second-hand looks seen on the runway. This embrace of second-hand fashion reflects the growing desire among consumers for unique, archive pieces rather than new, mass-produced items.

• Marine Serre’s Paris show was a masterclass in upcycling. She transformed discarded textiles such as vintage tablecloths and deadstock fabrics into avant-garde high fashion, proving that waste can indeed become a luxury.

• At Milan Fashion Week, the Sustainability Fashion Awards honoured brands like Diesel, which was recognized by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation for integrating circular business principles. Diesel's efforts to repurpose obsolete products and extend the life of their garments reflected the brand's commitment to circularity.

These efforts underline a growing movement toward rethinking waste and designing garments with a life beyond the runway.

Next-Generation Materials

Another exciting trend was the use of next-generation materials. Designers across fashion month embraced fabrics that are alternatives to synthetic fibres. 

• Ganni, in their Paris show, showcased an impressive array of seven innovative materials including Circulose, Cycora, and Cilium. Their commitment to reducing their carbon footprint by 50% by 2027 was evident in the materials they chose for their Spring/Summer 2025 collection.

• Stella McCartney, a leader in sustainable luxury, continued her mission at Paris Fashion Week by utilising plant-based leather, regenerated cashmere, and recycled materials like polyester sourced from ocean plastics.

These innovations are helping to pave the way for a future where fashion’s environmental footprint is significantly reduced.

Ethical Production & Cultural Heritage

While sustainability often focuses on materials, ethical production practices and a commitment to cultural heritage are also central themes in the evolution of fashion.

• House of Khaddar used the runway at New York Fashion Week to showcase materials like Khaddar denim and organic tomato leather, rooted in India’s hand-spun and hand-woven traditions. The collection emphasised how innovation can be beautifully intertwined with cultural preservation.

• In London, independent designer Lucy Tammam took the opportunity to spotlight the work of Stop Ecocide International, an organisation pushing to criminalise environmental destruction. Her collection reminded us that fashion can be used as a platform for advocacy.

The message is clear: sustainability extends beyond the choice materials. It’s about respecting craftsmanship, workers, and the planet.

Social Media and the Underconsumption Movement

In the era of fast fashion, social media has often been accused of fuelling overconsumption. Yet, there’s been a shift—underconsumption is now a growing trend across platforms like TikTok and Instagram.

• Creators are championing pre-loved fashion, celebrating their ability to put together outfits from vintage stores and second-hand platforms. 

• Collina Strada’s SS25 show in New York cleverly used its “Touch Grass” theme to highlight the importance of slowing down and reconnecting with the planet, all while delivering a highly viral and meme-worthy experience.

Social media has become a tool not only for showcasing the latest trends but also for promoting more mindful consumption patterns. Fashion creators are increasingly focusing on finding unique, long-lasting pieces that align with their values.

Challenges Designers Face in Sustainability

While many brands are making significant strides, it’s important to acknowledge the ongoing challenges of embracing sustainable practices in an industry driven by speed and consumer demand.

• Vogue Business aptly pointed out that "sustainable fashion is getting harder, not easier, for designers." The cost of sourcing sustainable materials remains high, and many brands are struggling to balance more responsible production with profitability.

• Earlier this year, Mara Hoffman put her sustainability-focused brand on pause and blamed the fashion industry’s disconnect from natural cycles and seasons contributing to burnout among designers. However, as part of New York’s Climate Week last week, she was seen partnering with Vestiaire Collective to sell more than 90 pieces from her brand’s archives. 

The challenge for Fashion Week remains, as the demand for constant innovation often contradicts the slower, more mindful processes required for true sustainability.

Looking Ahead

Hopefully what our review has shown is that there are many ways brands can begin to act more sustainably, regardless of their scale.

If you’re looking to transition to more circular practices with a design for circular economy workshop, explore next-generation materials, or create a sustainability strategy for your brand, Bergstrand Consultancy can help.

Schedule a complimentary 45-minute consultation to discuss how we can help you achieve meaningful change sooner.

Schedule a Consultation Here

What We’re Reading This Month

The overlooked child labour problem in fashion’s supply chain (Vogue Business) — Fashion is grappling with a widespread child labour issue across major sourcing regions like India and China, with experts urging the industry to clean up its opaque supply chains and eliminate the problem, especially as forced labour regulations loom.

Researchers studying bottlenose dolphins found polyester and other plastics in every animal they tested (New York Times) — Scientists have found microplastics in dolphin breath for the first time, highlighting how plastic pollution is affecting marine mammals and the pervasive nature of plastic in our environment

Bergstrand Consultancy is always on the lookout for ways to help brands stay ahead of the sustainability curve. As part of that mission, we’d like to introduce you to one of our key initiatives: the Good Wool Collective. Through the Good Wool Collective, we explore the game-changing potential of wool in the evolving regulatory landscape of textiles.

Wool: A Natural Ally in the Fight for Sustainability 🐑

At Bergstrand Consultancy, we believe wool is the unsung hero of sustainable materials. While many are chasing the latest innovations in textile production, wool continues to quietly offer solutions rooted in nature. It’s more than just another fibre—it has untapped potential to drive significant change in the industry. When managed responsibly, wool can play a key role in shaping a textile future that benefits both people and the planet. 

Consider this: while the textile world is often fixated on innovations to reduce plastic pollution, wool has been addressing these issues for centuries. Naturally renewable, durable, and biodegradable, wool stands apart from synthetic fibres, which contribute to microplastic pollution. Wool garments have a long lifecycle, requiring less frequent replacement, and when they do eventually break down, they return to the Earth without leaving behind toxic residues. 

What makes wool even more remarkable is the way it can be farmed. When wool is produced through regenerative agricultural practices, sheep not only contribute to the natural fibre cycle but can also help sequester carbon, reducing overall emissions. This creates a system where nature itself is a solution to climate challenges, transforming the sheep-grazed landscape into a carbon sink.

But as wool’s potential continues to unfold, the industry must navigate increasingly complex sustainability regulations, such as the European Commission’s Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) and this is where things get tricky.

The Challenge of the Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) 🌍

The PEF framework, created by the European Commission, aims to standardise how we measure the environmental impact of products across their life cycle, using a scoring system based on multiple environmental indicators. At first glance, this seems like a positive step for sustainability. But the issue lies in how PEF scores natural fibres like wool.

In the current PEF methodology, set to be adopted in 2025 as part of the Green Claims Directive, natural fibres are being penalised with lower scores compared to synthetic alternatives. This is because PEF currently overlooks key environmental impacts such as microplastic pollution, the full ecological costs of crude oil formation, biodegradability, sustainable production practices, and more. The environmental impact of natural fibres like wool is assessed across the entire supply chain—covering everything from greenhouse gas emissions produced by sheep to land and water use. By contrast, synthetic fibres benefit from a narrower assessment that begins only at the extraction phase (from the wellhead), excluding the broader impacts of raw material formation. 

For brands looking to embrace wool as part of their sustainability journey, these challenges around the PEF framework might seem daunting. At Bergstrand Consultancy, we’re following these developments closely. Organisations such as Make the Label Count are tirelessly campaigning to ensure the beneficial properties of natural fibres such as wool—biodegradability, renewability, and circularity—are properly recognised in new frameworks like PEF. Many in the industry are actively pushing for these changes, and together, we’re working toward creating a fairer, more accurate way to measure wool's true environmental impact.

Ecobalyse: Another Step Forward, But Still Work to Do 🇫🇷

Ecobalyse is a French platform that builds on the PEF framework but makes key adjustments to better reflect the sustainability realities of natural fibres in the French market. The goal is simple: make it easier for consumers to choose eco-friendly options and encourage brands to create more sustainable products. However, despite some improvements on PEF, wool and other natural fibres are still struggling to get the recognition they deserve within this system. 

The hope was that Ecobalyse would incorporate physical durability as a key factor, recognizing the lower environmental impact of long-lasting fibres like wool. However, recent updates suggest this aspect has been removed. Ecobalyse’s current 'durability coefficient' now considers factors such as the size of collections, the cost of repair versus replacement, and how long a product remains at full price—brand-level metrics that do not reflect the actual lifespan or robustness of the fibre itself. In contrast, the PEF framework still accounts for product-level physical (intrinsic) durability, which can be challenging for wool due to its natural variability but generally favours synthetic materials for their uniformity. Wool’s real strength, however, lies in its 'emotional durability'—its lasting appeal and value, leading to longer use and less frequent replacement. This remains an area of active discussion, and further refinement is needed to ensure frameworks like Ecobalyse capture the true sustainability benefits of wool. 

These gaps in Ecobalyse and PEF are a reminder of how crucial it is for brands to stay informed and involved in the ongoing evolution of sustainability frameworks. As regulations evolve, we hope that the advocacy for wool will ensure that its strengths aren’t overlooked. 

What’s Next for Wool in the Fashion and Textile Industries?

We’re on the cusp of a major transformation in how wool is valued by the fashion and textile industries—and by consumers. As brands prepare for the challenges and opportunities that lie ahead, staying informed and connected is more important than ever.

This is where the Good Wool Collective comes in. Whether you’re already working with wool or looking to diversify your material portfolio, we offer direct access to a global network of wool experts, insightful talks every two months, and tactical workshops on how to transition to more sustainable wool sources. 

Upcoming sessions include deep dives into topics like:

• Regenerative Agriculture in Action

• Methane and Wool: Impacts and Solutions

• Understanding GHG Protocols, Land Sector and Removals Guidance

These sessions are designed to provide you with practical knowledge and actionable strategies to help your brand stay ahead of the curve as wool’s role in apparel continues to evolve.

Join Good Wool Collective

On September 24th, we’ll be hosting our first session where we’ll explore wool’s carbon footprint and the evolving regulatory landscape. This is an exclusive opportunity for members of Good Wool Collective, and we’d love for you to join us.

Brands like Toteme, Marc O’Polo, and Helly Hansen are already part of the Good Wool Collective, benefitting from our combined efforts to stay ahead in the sustainability race. 

To secure your spot in the Good Wool Collective and begin tapping into the power of wool for a sustainable future, sign up at www.goodwool.org. 

If you are not a brand but are still interested in getting information about the content of our sessions and the latest in the world of wool for textile and apparel, please join the Good Wool Collective mailing list here. 

What we’re reading this month

Microplastics found in human brains — Recent studies reveal microplastics, such as those shed by synthetic fibres, have been found in human brains, raising concerns over potential links to dementia and Alzheimer's.

Toxic Substances and Child Labor Discovered in Shein's Supply Chain — Shein faces mounting scandals as reports uncover toxic chemicals in products and child labor violations, all while seeking a London Stock Exchange listing

Lower Temperatures Can Help Reduce the Environmental Footprint of Washing — New study reveals washing clothes at lower temperatures and shorter cycles can extend their lifespan by 50%

Dior Faces Criticism for Outdated Compliance with UK Modern Slavery Act — Outdated disclosures raise concerns about Dior’s efforts to address forced labour and uphold ethical supply chain practices

Less than half fashion brands set reduction goals on CO2 emissions — Less than half of the top 250 global fashion brands have verified CO2 reduction targets, with significant Scope 3 emissions and a lack of transparency in the $1.9 trillion industry.

Paul Polman, author of Net Positive, kicked off the summit "Unlocking the Next Level" with a compelling question: "Do you care?" and urged the industry to embrace a net positive approach through collaboration and science-based target setting.

The summit highlighted the critical need for investment and progress across the fashion value chain. The CEO of Global Fashion Agenda, Federica Marchionni's opening remarks and Peder Michael Jorgensen's insights emphasised the importance of transformative collaboration and equitable financial distribution. A recurring theme was data-driven decision-making, emphasising the need for data collection, collaboration, and standardisation to maintain transparency.

In his closing address, Patagonia CEO Ryan Gellert challenged attendees to shift from passive hope to active collective action, redefining success in the fashion industry through Patagonia's example of leadership in both business and environmental advocacy.

Alternative Business Models and Avoiding Over Supply 

With resale projected to grow, the potential for brands to profit without producing new garments is considerable. As a response to this, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation has presented its Fashion ReModel initiative, involving Arc'teryx and Zalando, promoting rental, repair, remake, and resale models for a circular economy.

Vanessa Friedman, American fashion journalist, highlighted overproduction, with textile waste expected to hit 148 million tonnes by 2030. The "Ending Oversupply" discussion proposed AI for better forecasting.

Barriers in using recycling

Recycling old clothes into new garments remains a challenge, with less than 1% currently being recycled. The upcoming Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation will require using recycled fibres, but standards for durability and performance are lacking. Recycled fibres must be integrated into main collections, not just small capsules, and translated into KPIs across all brand departments to create demand and lower costs.

"Action over perfection" was a key theme during panel discussions. Brands must increase demand for recycled fibres to improve technology and scale up. Collaboration among sorters, collectors, recyclers, and brands is essential, along with more transition funding to move from lab to scale. Technological advancements in textile-to-textile and garment-to-garment recycling were also discussed.

Living wages and collective bargaining

Major companies like PVH, H&M, and ASOS have signed agreements to support higher wages for Cambodian garment workers. Experts stress the need for more brands to commit legally to ending unfair labour practices and low wages. Stability in supply chains is crucial, with legally binding agreements ensuring living wages and workers' rights.

Underrepresented voices 

Research shows only 5% of fashion brands consider Indigenous communities in decision-making, despite their management of 80% of the world’s biodiversity. This relationship involves design and sustainability, with concerns about cultural appropriation, intellectual property, and traditional crafts.

Representatives from Polo Ralph Lauren discussed their framework of Collaboration, Compensation, and Credit, which aims to include Indigenous voices and those from the supply chain in the design process, ensuring cultural collaboration rather than appropriation.

EU and National level legislation

The impact of policies, both in the EU and globally, was a central theme at the summit. With the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles in focus, brands face challenges in complying with various regulations. As national legislation rolls out in Europe and the US, brands must adapt to new requirements. Discussions highlighted concerns about whether Ecodesign requirements will hinder designers. Embracing a circular economy involves more than just recycling; it requires designing for circularity and improving supply chains.

A New Way of Thinking

The Global Fashion Agenda's Trailblazer Programme supports early-stage innovations. This year's winner, Bloom Labs, converts natural waste into high-performance textiles, reducing reliance on virgin resources. Innovative alternatives, including seaweed-based fibers and banana by-products, were showcased, along with synthetic-free leather alternatives.

What was missing?

Despite numerous engaging discussions at the summit, covering all sustainability aspects in fashion remains challenging. Biodiversity, a crucial topic for future brand accountability, received little attention. Supporting indigenous communities, which oversee 80% of global biodiversity, is one solution, but what other actions can we take?

The representation of manufacturers and farmers, who supply the fibres for our garments, was notably absent. As legislation increases and brands face more requirements, collaboration across the value chain is essential, amplifying voices from the source.

The current fashion model is unsustainable. Feeling uneasy signals the need for change, as Patagonia CEO Ryan Gellert emphasised. Hope alone won't drive progress; action is imperative. We possess solutions but lack the will to implement them — a mindset shift is necessary. So, as Paul Polman asks, do you care?

Upcoming Newsletters

EU Legislations: Part 3. What is the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD)?

Regenerative agriculture: What is regenerative farming and why is it important for fashion?

What we’re reading this month

PFAS ban in Denmark - Denmark's government has proposed to introduce a national ban on PFAS in clothing, shoes and waterproofing agents that will start in two years' time.

Fashion show in Atacama Desert - Activists and designers organised an event to raise awareness of the clothes dump visible from space.

Planting trees to combat global warming is more complex than we think - While trees absorb carbon emissions, the practice of tree planting must be carefully managed to avoid detrimental effects on local ecosystems and biodiversity.

“Blue Beauty” the new trend in beauty - An increasing number of cosmetics and skincare brands are marketing themselves as 'ocean friendly'.

Is BCI cotton really as good as some may think? - BCI asserts that the cotton produced under its program uses fewer pesticides, improves farmers' living standards, and ensures safer chemical use. However, these claims have not been independently verified by any study.

Superwash wool is a wool that has been treated or processed in a way to be machine washable. It’s a process used to achieve felt-restistancy when machine washing it and more resistant to sudden temperature changes. 

The superwash process was developed in the 1970’s when the demand for machine washable materials increased as the washing machines gained popularity. To compete with the new, machine washable synthetic fibres, such as polyester, the superwash technology was developed. The aim was to prevent the wool from felting and thereby shrinking when washed in a washing machine.

However, the superwash treatment process involves both environmental risks and takes away the natural, and incredible, properties of wool. Wool is a natural material that is biodegradable and 100% renewable. In addition, it is naturally wrinkle resistant, breathable, odour and stain resistant, naturally elastic and flame retardant.

The process

The most common treatment used for the superwash process is the ‘Chlorine-Hercosett’ process, which is employed in approximately 70% of all wool labelled as fully machine-washable. It involves two steps.

Firstly, the wool is immersed in large pools containing a water-based chlorine solution. From this chemical process, the tiny scales on the wool fibres are removed or reduced. After the chlorine bath, the wool is cleaned from the chlorine.

Secondly, the wool fibre is coated with a fine layer of polymer, a type of plastic, that keeps the scales from joining together and causing shrinkage. The most common plastic used for coating is called Hercosett 125, which is a water-resistant nylon-based polymer. 

Downsides with superwash wool

Even though the superwash treatment can be argued to modify the wool to become more user-friendly, it imposes large environmental risks. For instance, large quantities of water are required and wastewater leaving the manufacturing plant can be contaminated. Wastewater with high concentrations of chlorine is dispersed in nature and is toxic for the surrounding communities, both human and animal life. Chlorine is a chemical with properties such as irritation to skin, may cause respiratory irritation and is very toxic to aquatic organisms. 

From the superwash treatment, adsorbable organic halides (AOX), are released from both the chlorine and the Hercosett polymer. AOXs are toxins created when chlorine reacts with available carbon-based compounds. AOXs, just as chlorine, have a large environmental impact if they are released in nature, they are for instance toxic to aquatic organisms.

The superwash treatment also ruins the natural properties of the wool. As mentioned, the wool fibre has an ability to regulate temperature, absorb moisture and is naturally flame retardant. The plastic coating from the superwash treatment seals the wool fibres which prevents the absorption of moisture and natural wicking of body moisture, as well as removes the creation of air pockets, which keeps the heat locked in.

Alternatives to superwash treatment

There are a alternatives to the superwash treatment to modify the wool fibre. One alternative is the Naturetexx Plasma process, developed by the German company Südwollegroup. This process uses plasma, air and electricity instead of chemicals to modify the fibre surface. No chlorine is used in the process and no AOX pollutants are released.

Furthermore, enzymes can be used to modify or improve the characteristics of the wool fibre. An enzyme is a type of protein that acts as a biological catalyst, facilitating and accelerating chemical reactions without being consumed in the process. In the context of wool processing, enzymes are employed for various purposes, such as cleaning, finishing, and modifying the characteristics of wool fibres. Enzyme treatment is often considered as more sustainable than traditional treatment processes, such as superwash, as no chlorine or other chemicals are used and less energy is required. The Danish brand Dilling is an example of a brand that uses both the Naturetexx Plasma process and enzyme treatment on their wool garments.

Is it really 100% wool if it’s superwash treated?

As it’s not mandatory for brands to write on the care label which treatment a wool garment has undergone, it’s hard to estimate how common superwash wool is in the industry. For brands who manufacture wool garments, traceability in your supply chain is key to gain knowledge on the treatments of the wool yarn used in your wool garments. The EU strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles will require brands to have full traceability for garments, including a disclosure of all treatments the products have gone through. Disclosing this kind of information will be crucial in order for textiles to be safely recycled.

As a consumer, ask the brand if your wool knit has been treated with the superwash process. By shedding light to environmental risks of the superwash treatment, we can reduce the amount of toxic chemicals and plastic in the supply chain of our garments. 

When knowing about superwash and its impact on the environment, human and animal life, would you want your wool garments to have this treatment? 

Bergstrand Consultancy can help your company to transition from unintentionally causing harm to proactively doing good. We advise on textile materials from an environmental and animal welfare perspective. We can help optimise your supply chain by building a traceable and local wool value chain. Reach out to info@bergstrand.co to learn more. 

Upcoming Newsletters

EU Legislations: Part 3. What is the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD)?

Regenerative agriculture: What is regenerative farming and why is it important for fashion?

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The hidden plastics in our clothes – and how to avoid them: Most people know that polyester trousers are made of plastic. But, from labels to threads and zippers, it is lurking in many less obvious places too.

What We Can Learn From Renewcell’s Financial Struggles: “Why is the hopes of textile-to-textile recycling hinged on fashion brands in the Global North with other priorities, who procure products from the supply chain in the Global South?”

The Vogue Business AW24 size inclusivity report: After green shoots of progress last season, big brands fell down on body diversity for Autumn/Winter 2024.

European Fashion Alliance (EFA) leads industry reform: uniting for sustainable transformation and empowerment: Last week, the EFA convened its members and the fashion industry for the conference Status of the European Fashion Industry.

Mushroom leather? The future of fashion is closer than you think: Imagine disposing of an old pair of shoes by simply composting them.

The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles includes a vision to tackle the problem of greenwashing and false environmental claims. This will be done through the directives called Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition Directive (ECGT) and Substantiating Green Claims Directive. The first mentioned applies to all voluntary generic claims both on product and company level while the second applies to all voluntary specific environmental claims.  

The purpose is to enhance the transparency and credibility of product labelling by prohibiting the use of generic environmental terms such as "environmentally friendly," "natural," "biodegradable," "climate neutral," or "eco" without substantiating evidence. Terms such as “conscious” and “responsible” will be banned under all circumstances. Today, 75% of all products in the EU claim to be green in some way, but more than half of these claims are unclear, misleading, or not true. Also, almost half of the 230 ecolabels in the EU don't have strong verification processes or don't have any at all. Going forward, only sustainability labels validated by official certification programs or established by public authorities will be permitted within the European Union.

This means that consumers are protected and ensured their rights during purchases and all cases of greenwashing are meant to be eliminated. Consumers must be informed about which products are more durable and which products are repairable. This goes hand in hand with the Ecodesign for Sustainable Product Regulation (ESPR), which means that products must be designed to last. 

Photo: Pexels.

How about climate compensation and comparative claims?

Members of the European Parliament have now banned claims that are based on emission offsetting schemes. Claims that state a product or service is “climate neutral” or “climate net zero” can not be used if the CO2 footprint has been calculated based on carbon offsetting schemes. Companies may still continue to work with a partner for offsetting, but it will not be allowed to compensate for your products’ emission based on this method. The reason for banning these kinds of claims are due to the fact that such schemes lack a regulatory background. 

Comparative claims will only be allowed if the products are within the same product category and the same method to calculate the environmental performance has been used. All claims must also be clear if they apply to the entire product, parts of the product, its supply chain or even packaging. Future environmental claims must also be substantiated. If companies make statements with specific targets to reduce CO2 emissions, then the transition plan to show more transparency along with an implementation plan verified by an independent third-party must be publicly available. 

Photo: Unsplash.

The verification process

All specific sustainability related claims made must be backed with scientific evidence, specific to the product, and verified by authorised national verifiers. The process is done in four steps: 

1. You need to substantiate your claim

2. The claim must be verified by approved verifiers

3. Once approved, you will receive a “certificate of conformity”

4. You are now allowed to communicate your claim in a clear way

Hence, the EU Commission will eliminate private certificates related to sustainability that companies have created themselves as these are not verified by an appointed verifier. 

Conclusion

The Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition Directive (ECGT) has officially been approved and Member States will now have two years to adopt and implement the directive. The Substantiating Green Claims Directive is expected to be approved later during 2024.

Bergstrand Consultancy can help your company ensure your communication is compliant with the directives. Our team can help with the communication as well as with substantiation of the claims.

Upcoming Newsletters

Superwash: The unknown treatment of wool - what is it and do we really need it?

EU Legislations: Part 3. What is Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive?

Regenerative agriculture: What is regenerative farming and why is it important for fashion?

What we’re reading this month

Textile Recycling in Europe: Can large-scale textile recycling reduce climate impact?

Microplastics: A new study finds that older garments shed more microfibres compared to newer garments.

ILO calls for improved worker safety: A new report by The International Labor Organisation (ILO) encourages collective action for better work environments.

Stricter wastewater management: A new EU agreement mandates that the cosmetics industry bears a minimum of 80 percent of expenses related to treating harmful substances in urban wastewater.

Reusable coffee cups?: Danish city first to test return system for reusable coffee cups in a three-year trial program.

The textile industry is today dominated by fast fashion companies and is characterised by its many trend cycles, short lead times, low retail prices and low-cost labor. The industry is today a global phenomenon, with garments designed in one country, manufactured in other countries, and sold globally. Over time, clothing has come to be considered disposable and as much as 40% of the clothes consumed are never worn. Europe alone discards 7.5 million tons of textiles yearly, which equates to 11.3 kg per person. The volume of textiles produced has nearly doubled from 2000 to 2019 in the EU. In Sweden, the average person consumes almost 14kg of new textiles yearly.

In 2015, the EU presented their Circular Economy Action Plan, followed by the European Green Deal in 2019, with the objective to make Europe the first climate-neutral continent by 2050. As a part of this, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textile was published on March 30th in 2022 with the ambition to make fast fashion out of fashion. The goal is that by 2030, all textile products placed and sold on the EU market, must be durable, free of hazardous substances and chemicals, made of as much recycled material as possible, produced in respect of the environment and the social rights of its workers, and be repairable and recyclable where repairs and reuse services are profitable with a widespread availability.

Photo: Unsplash

Design to last

Some countries, such as France, Germany, and Italy already have existing legislations for the textile industry, but there is a lack of harmonised laws and rules within the EU. This is all changing now and the textile sector will be connected to the EU in a new way. 

The European Parliament and the Council has reached a provisional agreement on the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation, in short ESPR. This is probably the most discussed regulation and one of the more important ones to keep track of as a fashion brand since the textile sector is one of the priority product groups for this legislation. Ecodesign for Sustainable Products can be explained as a framework with several regulations and directives that together make the ESPR regulation. It is expected that all criteria will be decided upon during 2024.

ESPR sets requirements for all products placed on the EU market, whether they have been produced in the EU or outside, that must meet minimum standards for sustainability both in terms of information and performance. The regulation highlights product durability, reusability, upgradability, and repairability. It also puts limitations on the presence of chemical substances that inhibit reuse and recycling of materials. Products should have as low carbon and environmental footprint as possible, through energy and resource efficiency. The EU also encourages products to be made of recycled content and bans the destruction of unsold goods. The purpose is to make sustainable products the norm.

Microplastics is widely discussed under ESPR and is an initiative on its own, which addresses the unintentional release of microplastics. The proposal contains requirements that cover manufacturing processes and consumer usage phase with a possible obligation to use washing machine filters to catch the released microplastics. Producers will have an obligation to label products if they contain a certain percentage of synthetic fibers that contribute to the release of microplastics. This means the choice of material will play a crucial part.

The EU is also revising the chemical restrictions of PFAS and its chemical framework REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals) and the CLP list (Classification, Labeling, Packaging of chemicals), with stricter group restrictions to be expected in the upcoming years.

Photo: Pexels

Digital Product Passport, also referred to as DPP, is another regulation under ESPR. The purpose is to disclose information of a product’s entire life cycle through a unique identificator, such as a QR code or RFID. It is yet to be decided if it will be required on a product level or a batch level. The information must be easily accessible for consumers, suppliers and other stakeholders and should as an example include information about raw material, treatments, recycling and repair possibilities of the product.

This regulation requires the entire supply chain to be digitised, something that is both expensive and time consuming. DPP is currently still under development and therefore it is still not decided how much information that should be disclosed. Once the requirements for DPP are finalised, it will be a great tool for improved information sharing along the supply chain.

What we do know is that it can be advantageous to start preparing for this already. Since DPP will be a feature to communicate product information, it is simultaneously a tool for both traceability and transparency. Start mapping your value chain and be informed of every stage of your products’ suppliers and possible subcontractor. We suggest that you as a brand should examine the opportunities available now for creating the digital platform for DPP. The regulation is anticipated to be finalised during 2027. The textile sector is one of the affected product category.

Summary

These regulations are only a few that make the Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. The key takeaways from here are that fashion brands must start working on transparency and adopting to the new design rules. In the coming newsletters, we will present the rest of the regulations from the EU strategy. As consultancy firm, we can support your company in preparing for the upcoming legislations.

Upcoming Newsletters

EU Legislations: Part 2. What does it mean for the textile and apparel industry?

Regenerative agriculture: What is regenerative farming and why is it important for fashion?

Lower CO2-emissions for wool: Can calculating carbon sequestration give wool a better environmental footprint?

What we’re reading this month

New innovation jewellery: The first diamond produced with a new carbon-capture technology.

Vestiaire Collective bans 30 fast fashion brands: The resale platform has banned several fast fashion brands as a means to raise awareness about the negative environmental impact the industry has.

COP28 calls fashion brands to improve: Fashion brands must set clear targets on how to lower their climate impact and be transparent about the transition.

Why do we consume so much during Black Friday? Experts on why we feel the urge to consume and how to get rid of this feeling.

Conscious consumers rise: More and more consumers make active choices by supporting companies who take social responsibility.

Re-Commerce can be defined as the business of buying and selling used or unsold products through digital platforms. This kind of commerce is growing rapidly, but the concept is not new. It is built upon the traditional brick-and-mortar stores and implements this idea to the online world making it more accessible for consumers. This concept contributes to the extension of product life through reuse and has been widely used in the online world for a long time already. With Re-Commerce, new models such as consumer-to-business and consumer-to-consumer have become increasingly popular today, with several new businesses emerging.

Picture from Pexels. Photographer Karolina Grabowska.

Re-Commerce within the fashion sector

The selling of vintage and second hand clothing has become a major fashion trend. Last year, consumers bought 1.4 billion second hand pieces instead of buying new, which makes it a 40% increase of second hand consumption only in the US market.  Resale markets are today estimated to be worth 100-120 billion dollars, which equals three times more than 2019 and is further expected to nearly double its worth by 2027. 

In the last quarter of 2022 several fast fashion and luxury fashion companies established some kind of resale platforms. Balenciaga is one of the first major luxury brands to fully integrate a secondhand service in their business model. They offer a service through a tech platform called Reflaunt, where customers can sell their Balenciaga items directly through the brand and earn cash or credits to buy new items. Both Gucci and Chloé have also entered the resale market through the resale platform Vestiaire Collective.

It is not only fashion brands that are embracing the act of reselling. Luxury department store Selfridges has developed an initiative called “Project Earth” and is built on three pillars: a transition towards sustainable materials, investments in new shopping models, and also challenge the mindsets of its customers, teams and partners. 

Picture from Unsplash. Photographer: Crew.

Options for Resale Services

Spherio, a service by Stockholm based company Refine Group, enables reselling options for brands. Yaytrade, Spherio Solutions and Re/Way are three options by Spherio for brands, ambassadors and consumers to effectively manage their sales of overstock, samples, returns, and unwanted items. The first option does not require brands to have their own branded resale site, while the second option is connected to the brand’s website. The third option is an online consignment platform, where consumers can resell their items from luxury fashion brands.

Archive is an American company brands and consumers can use for resale. The company offers different resale options such as peer-to-peer, vintage and brand supply, take-back programs, as well as repair, recycle and donations. Through Archive, brands can have control of their secondhand markets through customised resale programs, implement circular operations into their business models, and help achieve growth while not producing new items.

ThredUP is one of the world’s largest resell platforms and is based in the United States, offering resale service to both companies and consumers. For companies, thredUP works similarly as Spherio Solutions. Consumers can also participate in the reselling through sending unwanted items to thredUP, which in turn authenticate the items, price them, put them up for sale, and ship when sold. When customers sell their items, they earn credit to use on the platform.

Picture from Pexels.

What is next?

The trend is growing and is not stopping anytime soon. Re-commerce should be seen as a tool for reselling unwanted or unsold articles while simultaneously finding new ways to create sustainable business models that will reduce the impact in all steps throughout the supply chain. While circular business models are crucial in terms of sustainability in the fashion industry, it is not the only solution to count on. Along with re-commerce, we need new innovative ways to handle textile waste, with textile recycling being one alternative. More importantly, we need to find ways to tackle the overproduction existing today and design garments that are long lasting and produced in an ethical and sustainable manner. In the EU, this will ultimately be regulated through the new textile strategy.

Upcoming Newsletters:

EU Legislations: What does it mean for the textile and apparel industry?

Regenerative agriculture: What is regenerative farming and why is it important for fashion?

Lower CO2-emissions for wool: Can calculating carbon sequestration give wool a better environmental footprint?

What we’re reading this month:

The impact of leather production: Textile Exchange and Leather Working Group aim to rid leather supply chains of deforestation and improve transparency.

H&M’s clothing collection program: Discarded textiles of consumers end up in landfills in the Global South instead of being recycled into new textiles.

Is recycled polyester better than virgin polyester?: A study by the Microfibre Consortium investigates the fibre fragmentation and microfibre shedding of recycled polyester compared to virgin polyester.

Global Fashion Summit: A summary of the fashion summit in Copenhagen.

Is fungi the answer to global warming? Research shows that fungi can store carbon emissions and help prevent global warming.

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About Bergstrand Consultancy

Welcome to our monthly Edit about the latest in fashion and sustainability.

I wanted to start by telling you why I started Bergstrand Consultancy.

Bergstrand Consultancy is a sustainability consultancy with a focus on fashion and textile.

I have a background working with product development and fashion design. In 2015 I started to read about sustainability and the many problems the fashion industry is facing. At the time I worked as senior designer at Saint Laurent in Paris. After many years in the industry, working brands of all sizes from luxury to start ups, I had witnessed first-hand how devastating the fashion industry can be, but also how it can be a powerful force for good.

I studied sustainable development including courses on planetary boundaries and circular economy, and decided to dedicate all my time in trying to make the fashion industry more sustainable and ethical.

Coming from a design background, I wanted to help transform brands towards sustainability and accountability, without compromising on style and creativity. I found that there was a gap between sustainability at the time, and fashion, so started Bergstrand Consultancy in 2017.

Around the same time I also started another journey; I wanted to prove that it was possible to make high quality clothing in a truly sustainable way. I came to the conclusion that it had to be natural materials found locally, with traceability all the way down to the farm. And a production chain as local as possible. A NEW SWEDEN was launched in 2019, read more here.

Bergstrand Consultancy now consists of me and two additional experts, Katarina Wallin and Maja Gruvaeus. Katarina is an expert in the development and sourcing of premium and active footwear with over ten years experience in the industry. 

Maja works with greenwash-free communications around sustainability and ensures that stories told are authentic and accurate.

We are also looking for a third person to join the team as junior sustainability consultant. (applications accepted until February 28th 2023)

“Even after almost twenty years in the industry, I never stop being amazed over the people I meet. Farmers, designer and factory owners with the dedication to create a more sustainable future.” 

- Lisa Bergstrand

At Bergstrand Consultancy our work is tailored around the needs of our clients. From sustainability strategies to workshops in design for circular economy. Read more about us and what we offer on our website.

In our coming Sustainability Edits we will go into detail on important topics and highlight talking points in the world of fashion and sustainability.

If you have any inquiries or would like to get in touch, don’t hesitate to contact us!

Warm regards

Lisa Bergstrand,

Founder and Sustainability specialist

Upcoming Newsletters:

Circularity: Re-sell platforms, what are the options and how do they work?

Regenerative agriculture: What is regenerative farming and why is it important for fashion?

Lower CO2-emissions for wool: Can calculating carbon sequestration give wool a better environmental footprint?

What we’re reading this month:

France new law on sustainability: What does it mean for fashion?

Textile industry's microfibre impact assessed

The super-rich responsible for 50% of the world's emissions.

Fashions leather misinformation problem and why vegan doesn't mean sustainable.

Fashion Week Is Unsustainable. Can Copenhagen Change It?

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